Hands-On: Oris New Big Crown Bullseye and Atelier Year of the Fire Horse from the Slopes of Vail

I just wrapped up a whirlwind trip to Vail, Colorado, as a guest of Oris for an exclusive preview of their 2026 releases. Three days of skiing, snowboarding, dog sledding, and of course watches. The mountain backdrop was straight out of a postcard. But let's get to the good stuff: the watches. Oris is killing it by offering everything from accessible entry points like the new Bullseye to powerhouse calibers in their Atelier collection. I got hands-on with three standouts that embody their ethos.

We kicked things off with the Big Crown Pointer Date in a fresh 38mm "Bullseye" configuration. This one's a nod to vintage designs, featuring a symmetrical dial with a central red arrow pointer for the date—no clunky window disrupting symmetry. It's powered by a modified Sellita-based movement that gets Oris's standard red rotor. The coined edge bezel adds vintage flair, its compact (38mm), and comfortable.

Next up, the star of the show from the Atelier collection: a 43mm limited edition celebrating the Year of the Fire Horse. The blood burgundy dial with its fume gradient sub-dials is mesmerizing. Inside beats the Caliber 113, a in house hand-wound full calendar (month, week, day, and date) withan impressive 10-day power reserve. The power reserve indicator instead of a traditional up/down or full/empty uses a galloping horse when fully wound and a resting one when it's time to wind it up. Strapped on, it felt surprisingly wearable despite the size. Oris really nailed the thematic details here, blending cultural nods with serious horological chops.

Another stand out was the Big Crown 5-Day, which I actually had on wrist during the trip. This beauty sports a small seconds at 6 o'clock, a pointer date with that signature red tip for the date hand. Powered by Oris's in-house movement with a 120-hour (that's five full days) power reserve, it's compact for what it packs and sits perfectly on the wrist. Oris has models like this with the Caliber 473 starting around $5,000 on a strap.

What strikes me most about Oris is their smart balance: Sellita-based affordability in pieces like the Big Crown Bullseye just under $2,400, alongside in-house heavy-hitters like the Fire Horse starting at around $8000. It's a brand that's evolving while staying true to its roots.

Got thoughts on these Oris drops? Fire Horse fan or Big Crown devotee? Hit the comments below

Check Oris's website for more information - Oris - Swiss watchmaking

Check out my Vail video here - https://youtu.be/eOlDV3b5BZM

Swing by my Instagram @watchchrisblog for behind-the-scenes from Vail

These Watches Are Overrated

 This Independent Watchmaker is Like Nothing Else You Can Buy Right Now

If you've been following my YouTube channel or my Instagram, you know I'm always on the hunt for something fresh in the watch world—pieces that break the mold and tell a story beyond the usual suspects. Well, today I'm diving into Holthinrichs, an independent Dutch watchmaker that's been on my radar for a while. Bold dials, 3D printed sculptural innovative cases, and a design that evokes vintage cars and Sci-fi at the same time. After getting my hands on them and meeting the charismatic owner at the Hype NYC event during NYC Watch Week.

At the Hype NYC event held in a small hotel conference room during NYC Watch Week I met with the owner and founder of Holthinrichs Watches Michiel Holthinrichs, a Dutch architect-turned-watchmaker—a super approachable guy who's as passionate about his creations. We spent the good part of 2 hours about geeking out over his creations.

Let's start with the cases. Everything here is 3D-printed in Grade 5 titanium, giving them this organic, almost sculptural vibe inspired by classic car fenders and Art Nouveau curves. The lugs sweep out like ribbons, polished on top but left raw on the sides from the printing process, creating a cool two-tone effect—darker and matte where it's untreated, gleaming where it's polished. At 38mm across, with a 44.7mm lug-to-lug and just 9.8mm thick (thanks to the slim Sellita SW300-1 movement inside), these wear like a dream on my 7.5-inch wrist. Lightweight as due to the titanium, and the shape hugs your arm like a tonneau case. 50 meters of water resistance solid for daily wear.

First up, the rose gold dial version. The dial on this one's a wild ride—multi-layered with a metallic base that is rose or yellow gold, topped by a domed sapphire crystal layer printed with the minute track and the Holthinrichs logo. Then there's a chapter ring with lume-filled indices, and hands that are organically shaped and also packed with lume. The whole thing has this depth and texture that plays with light and shadows. It's modern, it's arty, and organic.

Switching gears to the ceramic "Delft" dial model—named after that classic Dutch blue-and-white pottery. This one's more restrained, with custom Breguet numerals in blue, a signed "Holthinrichs" at 12 o'clock, and skeletonized blue hands (no lume here). The ceramic gives it a dressy, elegant feel without the extra sapphire layer, making it slimmer and more traditional. But don't think it's boring; the blue pops against the titanium, and it's a nod to the brand's Dutch roots—all components except the Swiss movement are made in the Netherlands.

Peeking at the back, both have screwed-in case back that matches the organic theme, a customized, hand-finished rotor on the SW300-1 is a nice touch—visible through the sapphire exhibition window. The clasp is 3D-printed too, signed and skeletonized echoing the case.

On the wrist, these feel premium yet approachable. The rose gold dial is my pick for its layered craziness—it's like wearing a piece of modern art. The ceramic is classy yet modern and clean, Holthinrichs offers something truly unique. Head over to their site (holthinrichswatches.com) and see for yourself.

What do you think? Rose gold or Delft blue? Drop a comment below. Until next time, keep those wrists interesting.

And if you want the full hands-on breakdown, here's the video: https://youtu.be/0fhB28hay2Q

MMI Cuttlecron Great Wave Dial

Today we're talking about the MMI Cuttlecron in stainless steel with Great Wave dial – a limited edition that's quirky, premium-feeling, and packed with lume in a way that's almost absurd transforming from subtle white to a glowing masterpiece after dark. If you're into microbrands that deliver big on value and creativity, this one's a standout. Let's get into it.

MMI isn't a massive operation, but they're all about unique designs. The Cuttlecron Wave pulls from that iconic Great Wave artwork, but they've reimagined it without the boats, adding a moon and layering in three different lume colors for depth. During the day, it's a clean white dial with applied indices; flip the lights off, and Splash! – the waves come alive. It's not just a gimmick; it's executed with real thought.

Specs at a Glance

• Case: Stainless steel, square-ish with a bulgy profile; 41mm at the bezel, 42mm across the case; 12.5mm thick; 44.3mm lug-to-lug (wears like a 42mm on the bracelet); 150m water resistance; sapphire crystal front, solid caseback; crown at 4-5 o'clock, shrouded for protection and lumed.
• Dial: White wave pattern that's invisible in daylight but reveals a tri-lume Great Wave (three colors for dimension) at night; applied lume-filled indices; segmented, lume-filled hands (polished to look black against the white); orange seconds hand with lume counterbalance.
• Bezel: Ceramic, 120-click unidirectional; lumed markers.
• Movement: Miyota 9039 (no-date version of the 9000 series for a slim profile) automatic.
• Bracelet: Integrated "I" - Link style, screwed links; quick-release; solid end links; clasp with on-the-fly micro-adjust
• Price & Availability: $436 on pre-order (shipping in January); comes with the bracelet (strap option).

The case finishing is what really sells it – brushed sides with polished edges that catch light just right, giving it a premium vibe way beyond the price. That square shape isn't usually my jam, but the proportions work, and the shrouded crown adds a cool, protective touch without bulk. Flip it over, and while the caseback's solid you do have some heavily embossed artwork featuring a cuttlefish

The Dial: Daytime Stealth, Nighttime Spectacle

Up close in good light, the dial looks deceptively simple – white background, applied indices, those polished hands that read black for killer legibility. But charge it up and hit the dark: the wave pattern emerges in glowing blues, greens, and whites, with a moon tucked between 2 and 3 o'clock. The lume extends to the bezel, hands, indices, and even the crown – it's over-the-top in the best way, creating this 3D effect that's mesmerizing.

The bracelet is a highlight too – it's got an integrated feel with polished accents, and the clasp is a standard microbrand clasp albeit with easy micro-adjust. On my 7.5-inch wrist, the whole package wears comfortably, feeling more like a 42mm than the specs suggest. Minor nitpick? More taper on the bracelet would've been nice, but at this price, it's hard to complain.

On the Wrist and Why It Matters

On the wrist, the Cuttlecron doesn't feel like a budget microbrand piece – the build quality shines through, and the lume show makes it fun without being cheesy. Microbrands are stepping up, and MMI's showing how to do quirky right: premium materials, thoughtful details, and a price that leaves room in your wallet for more watches.

If you're eyeing an affordable diver with personality, jump on the pre-order while it lasts. Check out the full details on MMI's site: https://mmiwatches.com/products/cuttlecron-wave-limited-edition

And for the complete hands-on, here's the video: https://youtu.be/TJg7zL9fZpE

What do you think – does the tri-lume wave dial win you over, or is the square case a dealbreaker? Hit me with your thoughts below, and thanks for reading!

Isotope Flyway Terra Maris

The "micro-independent" watch brand Isotope out of the UK has been turning heads with their sci-fi-inspired designs that aren't just quirky—they're packed with thoughtful details. The Flyway Terra Maris is a perfect example: a 36mm piece that feels bespoke, with a pyramid-textured fume dial, curved sapphires front and back, and a Swiss La Joux-Perret Automatic movement that punches above its weight. It's not your average microbrand release; it's the kind of watch that rewards a closer look. Let's dive in.

Isotope isn't huge, but they're run by passionate folks who draw from classic 1950s drive-in sci-fi vibes—think retro futurism without the over-the-top modern flair. The Flyway series embodies that, and the Terra Maris variant I reviewed is a standout with its dark tan dial that fades lighter toward the center, bronze indices, and heat-blued hands. It's limited, unique, and honestly, one of those watches that makes you say, "Why don't more brands do this?"

Specs at a Glance

• Case: 36mm diameter (measures about 36.5mm), brushed with polished and media-blasted accents; short lugs make for a 41mm lug-to-lug at the case, but it extends to around 46mm with the bracelet; 12.2mm thick; 100m water resistance; screw-down caseback; polished crown with logo (not screw-down).
• Crystal: Domed and curved front and back sapphire 
• Dial: Pyramid texture with a fume gradient (darker edges, lighter center); bronze applied indices filled with creamy old-radium-style Super-LumiNova; heat-blued, skeletonized hands with lume; applied blue logo at 12; engraved chapter ring with diamond markers; "Swiss Made" at the bottom.
• Movement: Swiss Automatic no date - either - Landeron or La Joux-Perret G101(up charge see below) visible through the exhibition back.
• Bracelet: Tapered multi-link with screwed links, polished centers, and a double push-button clasp; quick-release tabs shaped like the Isotope logo for easy swaps.
• Other Details: Lume on the indices, hands, including the seconds hand counterbalance

The case design is clever—it mimics an integrated bracelet watch without the need for custom straps. The bezel has a knurled edge that plays with light, and the lugs curve in a way that makes the watch wear larger than its specs suggest. On my 7.5-inch wrist, it doesn't feel small at all; it sits comfortably and looks balanced, almost like a 37mm piece. That curved back sapphire? Pure indulgence— it warps the view of the movement in a fun way, even if it's not practical.

The Dial: Where the Magic Happens

Up close, the pyramid texture on the dial gives it serious depth, especially with that fume effect pulling your eye inward. The bronze indices pop against the tan, and the lume is applied generously—creamy and vintage-inspired, glowing strong. Those heat-blued hands add a touch of color, and the skeletonization keeps things light and airy. Little touches like the engraved diamonds on the chapter ring and the blued screws visible from the back scream attention to detail. It's not flashy, but it's refined in a way that most microbrands skip.

On the Wrist and Final Thoughts

As I said, it wears great—proportions are spot-on for daily use, dressing up or down. The Flyway feels more refined and wearable. Isotope sweats the small stuff: the quick-release tabs, the unnecessary but awesome curved back crystal, the pyramid dial—it's all "very strange, very weird, very cool," this isn't an average microbrand watch; it's creative, standout, and avoids the cookie-cutter trap.

Priced at $1,338 for the Landeron version (or $1,668 for the LJP G101), it's not cheap for a microbrand, but for the details and Swiss movement, I think its a good buy. If you're into unique, sci-fi inspired pieces, this is it.

Head over to Isotope's site to check it out: https://isotopewatches.com/products/isotope-flyway-terra-maris

And if you want the full hands-on breakdown, here's the video: https://youtu.be/bDY28GeXy5A

What do you think—does the Flyway's detail obsession win you over? Drop your takes below, and thanks for reading!

This Watch Brand Pays Attention to the Details!

Zelos Helica Moonphase

If you've caught my latest video, you know I'm pretty fired up about the Zelos Helica Moonphase. Zelos has been on a tear lately, dropping limited runs every few months that just keep getting better—unique materials, solid builds, and prices that make you question why other brands charge what they do. This Helica is prime example: a hand winding Swiss-made moonphase in a 38.5mm case that's dressy enough for the office but tough enough for daily wear, all for under a grand. Let's break it down.

The Helica Moonphase isn't trying to be flashy—it's understated elegance with some clever twists. The case is stainless steel, measuring 38.5mm across, 45mm lug-to-lug, and about 11.7mm thick on the wrist (feels slimmer thanks to the domed sapphire crystal up front). You've got 100m water resistance via a screw-down crown and caseback, which is impressive for something that wears like a dress watch. The finishing mixes brushed tops and sides with polished accents, including a thick polished line running along the top of the case—gives it that premium pop without overdoing it.

This Affordable Moonphase Combines Dress Watch Looks with Everyday ...

But the real magic is on the dial. Zelos went with an aventurine base for that starry, speckled night-sky vibe, and it's layered beautifully. At 12 o'clock, there's an oversized moonphase window with a smoked overlay—under it, you've got two luminous moons on an aventurine disc. In daylight, you see one moon clearly, but flip to low light and the second one glows through the smoke for a cool reveal. The indices are globalite for killer lume, the hands are Zelos' signature style—polished, partially skeletonized, and lume-filled—there's a silver minute track along with a concentric seconds track located in the center of the aventurine portion of the dial. It's all cohesive, not cluttered, and the lume performance is next-level: hands, indices, and that moonphase pops bright in the dark.

Powering it is a Swiss Sellita SW288 hand-wound movement—basically a moonphase-equipped take on the SW200, visible through the sapphire caseback. It's reliable, with that panoramic moonphase setup, and Zelos has tuned it for everyday use. No automatic here, but winding it manually feels right for a piece like this.

On the wrist it sits perfectly. Not too big, not too small; the proportions are spot-on for versatility. And the bracelet? Easily one of the best at this price: multi-link with tapering, screwed links, quick-release spring bars, solid end links, and a clasp that's a game-changer. There's an external button for micro-adjustments in both directions—super smooth, and you can do it without taking the watch off.

Priced at $949 for the aventurine and mosaic mother-of-pearl versions (meteorite dial bumps it to $999), this is a launch special until February 15—after that, it jumps to $1,099. With only around 300 pieces per drop, these move fast. Zelos is doing what bigger brands can't or won't: high-quality, innovative watches with unique features like that lume moonphase and killer bracelet, all without the markup. It's a "go anywhere, do anything" watch that dresses up or down effortlessly.

If you're in the market for an affordable moonphase that doesn't skimp on details, snag one while you can. Check out the full lineup on Zelos' site: https://zeloswatches.com/collections/helica

And if you want the full hands-on, here's the video: https://youtu.be/-dsYGDgD1YE

What do you think—does the Helica tempt you into the moonphase game? Hit me with your thoughts below, and as always, thanks for reading!

Peacock Hand-Made Guilloché Tourbillon Watch - Reimagined Edition is a striking tourbillon from Chinese haute horlogerie manufacture Peacock: high complications, artisanal finishing, and genuine value need not carry a five-figure (or six-figure) price tag.

Specs at a Glance

• Case: 41 mm diameter, 48 mm lug-to-lug, 11 mm thick; 904L stainless steel (the same alloy favored by Rolex for its superior corrosion resistance and polish); polished mid-case line and lug internals; screwed-down caseback; signed crown; dual sapphire crystals; 50 m water resistance.
• Dial & Hands: Fully hand-guilloché via traditional rose-engine lathe; purple finish applied by hand; open architecture revealing portions of the movement; prominent tourbillon aperture at 6 o'clock; skeletonized hands with subtle lume.
• Movement: In-house hand-wound Peacock caliber (PAX9612) with floating/suspended tourbillon; hand-guilloché “pineapple” motif on bridges and plates; beveled edges; silver-toned finishing throughout.
• Strap & Buckle: Calf suede leather strap; custom signed buckle with multi-finish detailing.
• Edition & Price: Limited to 100 pieces in the purple configuration (reported as nearly or fully sold out at time of review); $2,299 USD.

This watch really does feel like a game-changer for Chinese watchmaking.

Peacock isn't your typical Chinese brand pumping out affordable divers or homages. They've been around since the '50s, and lately they've been stepping up in a big way, supplying movements to some microbrands (shoutout to Atelier Wen) and building pieces that punch way above their price. It's basically proof that you can get serious haute horlogerie-level details without remortgaging your house.

Let's start with the obvious star: that dial. It's not just printed or laser-etched – it's hand-guilloché on a proper rose engine lathe. The purple pattern has this feather-like, radiating vibe that catches light beautifully and gives the whole thing insane depth. But here's the cool part – a lot of what you're seeing isn't actually a separate dial. It's the movement itself peeking through. The bridges and plates have that same guilloché "pineapple" pattern applied directly, and they've colored the whole movement purple to match. Flip it over and the exhibition caseback shows off beveled edges, nice finishing, and a floating tourbillon at 6 o'clock.

peacockwatches.com

The case is 904L stainless steel – yeah, the same stuff Rolex uses for better corrosion resistance and that crisp polish. 41mm diameter, about 48mm lug-to-lug, 11mm thick. Not too chunky, wears really nicely on my 7.5-inch wrist. Polished mid-case line, polished lug internals, signed crown, screwed-down caseback, dual sapphire crystals, 50m water resistance. Nothing groundbreaking on paper, but the execution feels premium.

Hands are skeletonized with just a touch of lume – enough to read in low light. Strap is calf suede leather (not some cheap embossed thing), and the custom buckle has multiple finishes with the Peacock logo. Little details like that make it feel special.

The Bigger Picture for Chinese Watchmaking

Now the big question: is it worth $2,299? Short answer: absolutely, especially for the limited purple edition of 100 pieces (pretty sure it's sold out or down to the last couple by now – other colors are still around though).

If this were Swiss-made with hand-guilloché dial, tourbillon, 904L case, and this level of finishing, you'd easily be looking at $50k–$100k from an indie or established maison. Even something basic like TAG Heuer's entry-level tourbillon back in the day was around $15k and nowhere near this artisanal. Chinese tourbillons are everywhere now – you can grab one for $500 – but Peacock is playing in a different league with real handwork and refinement.

This isn't just another decorated movement slapped in a case. The rose-engine guilloché on both dial and movement, the custom bits, the overall feel – it's taking Chinese watchmaking to a whole new level. No more "oh it's Chinese so it must be a cheap copycat." Peacock is showing that serious craftsmanship and complications can come from China at prices that actually make sense.

If you're into tourbillons or just want something that feels like an independent watchmaker piece without the insane markup, check this out. Head over to Peacock's site for the remaining options: https://peacockwatches.com/products/peacock-witness-hand-made-guilloche-tourbillon-watch-reimagined-edition

And if you haven't seen the full hands-on yet, here's the video: https://youtu.be/8nNCjE7DD0Y

What do you guys think? Does this change how you view high-end Chinese watches? Drop your thoughts below – love hearing from you all.

 5 Luxury Watch Brands That Have Tanked on the Secondary Market – Incredible Bargains for High-End Timepieces

If you're a watch enthusiast looking to own genuine luxury pieces without breaking the bank, the secondary market is full of hidden gems. Many once-expensive brands have depreciated dramatically — turning $10,000–$20,000+ watches into affordable treasures.

Inspired by WatchChris's video, here are five standout luxury brands with massive value drops, complete with visuals!

1. Jean d'Eve – Forgotten Complications at Entry-Level Prices

These quirky, high-complication pieces from the late 20th century often feature double retrograde displays and artistic case designs.

Here are some beautiful examples of Jean d'Eve double retrograde models:

chronohut.com

chronohut.com

Quartz versions frequently sell for $500–$1,000, while automatics stay under $2,000 — pure mechanical artistry on a budget!

2. De Grisogono – Jewelry Brand's Overlooked Mechanical Masterpieces

Known for bold tank-style cases and serious horology, these offer jump hours, retrogrades, and GMT functions.

Check out these stunning De Grisogono Instrumento pieces:

borysenkowatch.com.ua

De Grisogono Instrumento: buy watches at the best price ...

And here's the standout FG model with jump hour + double retrograde + GMT:

europeanwatch.com

21821) De Grisogono FG One N03 Jump Hour GMT Black PVD | European ...

Originally $14,000–$20,000+, many now go for under $2,000–$5,000. Underrated luxury at its finest.

3. Ventura – Futuristic Designs That Still Feel Timeless

These bold, often titanium-cased watches have a sci-fi vibe and hold up remarkably well.

A look at the Sparc model with its visible rotor and digital display:

ablogtowatch.com

Ventura Sparc MGS Watch | aBlogtoWatch

Excellent condition pieces are often $800–$2,000 — perfect for something different.

4. Corum – Modern, Richard Mille-Esque Vibes on a Budget

Corum's contemporary lines feature innovative micro-rotor movements and distinctive T-shaped or avant-garde cases.

Take a look at these modern Corum pieces with micro-rotor finishing:

deployant.com

New launch: Heritage Corum Lab 01 :

Originally around $20,000, many are now found for $6,000–$7,000 (sometimes less). Serious value in high-end design.

5. Seiko AGS Series – Kinetic Pioneers at Rock-Bottom Prices

Seiko's high-end kinetic (auto-quartz) line includes rugged titanium masters like Landmaster, Scubamaster, and Flightmaster.

Here are some gorgeous examples of these ahead-of-their-time pieces:

Flightmaster GMT variant:

reddit.com

Seiko] AGS Flightmaster Titanium x2 - 5M45-6A50 and 5M65-0A50 : r ...

Prices start around $500–$1,000 for nice examples — underrated tech from a legend.

These brands offer luxury-grade watches at microbrand prices thanks to market oversupply. Happy hunting on eBay, Chrono24, or forums — which one catches your eye first? Drop a comment!

(Original video credit: WatchChris – "5 Luxury Brands that Tank on the Secondary Market")

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